Ancient Hawaiians believed that when Pele, the goddess of fire, first visited Maui’s Haleakala, she dug a deep pit and made sixteen pu’u (or cinder cones). These pu’u were said to form a sacred alignment from the summit of the volcano eastward 30 miles to Haneo`o and the ocean. Haleakala became the focus for early worship and deeply affected those who ascended.

More recently, cycling enthusiasts have come to revere the mountain’s other awe-inspiring side as they coast westward down its twisting, paved road. Starting from a peak of 10,023 feet, you descend with effortless exhilaration to the town of Haiku and on to the water’s edge. The experience is a great way to connect with Maui and enjoy unrivalled glimpses of the Hawaiian islands, spread out around you like giant stepping-stones in the sea.

The unique downward trek has become a popular pilgrimage for thousands of thrill-seekers. Half a dozen cycling outfitters cater to this mountain bike experience including our choice, Haleakala Bike Company, one of the first to offer bike tours of this amazing place.

Our adventure begins as we turn off the road to Hana and head inland to “upcountry” and the town of Haiku where HBC is headquartered. We check in at 8:30 AM, sign the requisite waivers, and get fitted for the fun to come. Tour prices start at $59.99 for an express option that begins at a mere 6,500 ft. but we’re shooting for the top with the “Super Summit Deluxe” tour ($104.99 per person).

After an initial equipment briefing, we stuff our backpacks with snacks and water while the crew secures our bikes to the van. The ride up the mountain is a great preview of the adventure to come – in reverse. Our guide orients us, pointing out key landmarks for our return and suggesting restaurants and shops that could fit our itinerary.

As we ascend, the scenery changes from swaying tropical palms to pine tree forests. The distinctly mountainous terrain is more reminiscent of the Rockies than an island paradise. Soon even the forests thin out until dry scrub and sprigs of grass are all that remain amid the stark, volcanic landscape.

After 30 minutes or so we pass 6,500 feet and make our first stop at Haleakala National Park. The Park serves to interpret the region’s unique and fragile ecosystem and also protects its endemic and endangered species. As we exit the van we come face to face with two of its charges: a couple of Hawaiian geese, known locally as Nene (branta sandwicensis). While the species’ population has remained relatively stable recently, only 500 Nene remain and they are only found on Maui, Kauai and the Big Island. The pair we encounter seem oblivious to their status, venturing close enough for several candid photos.

We avail ourselves of the visitor center exhibits and other more basic facilities and don our weather gear before returning to the van. The sub 60-degree chill is already a striking contrast to the softer 70s we left at our beach resort. We move on -- and up -- in a series of hairpin turns that ultimately take us to the summit.

Finally we arrive at the top, where the effects of a 10,023 foot altitude are readily apparent. The air is no longer chilly – it’s downright cold! And our ear-poppings have reached a crescendo. Walking around, we are immediately struck by the spectacular, sweeping views of Haleakala’s crater. It’s an astonishing 3,000 feet deep, seven miles long, two miles wide, and 21 miles in circumference. Big enough to contain Manhattan! Had we been willing to rise three hours earlier, we would have been treated to a famed Haleakala sunrise -- a wonder that Mark Twain described as, "the sublimest spectacle I ever witnessed.”

It’s almost as if we are airborne. We notice Maui stretching out beneath us and we easily see the Big Island to the east. To the west we recognize Läna‘i and Moloka‘i. The horizon is too cloudy for us to make out O‘ahu, but we sense that on a clear day it would be an easy sight.

After posing for the obligatory photos beside the “Elevation 10,023 ft.” sign, we return to the van where our bikes have been readied. Donning helmets, we take a quick tour of the parking lot, adjust seats and handlebars, then we’re off on the first leg of our downward journey, escorted by an HBC guide (Park rules).

The wind whistles around our helmets and its icy fingers try to sneak into our gloves. The feeling is one of crisp exhilaration, a perfect match for the stark volcanic scenery around us. We plunge 3,000 feet in 10 miles, arcing through 29 switchbacks (hairpin turns). In minutes we’re back at 6,500 ft. and the Park entrance, where our guide and the van bid us farewell. But our journey is far from over.

We pause to absorb the breathtaking views, then resume our rolling adventure. Volcanic barrenness soon gives way to spreading green pastures and growing clusters of pines. The air, previously icy and dry, has become moist and fragrant with the scent of pine. An hour later we have crossed the threshold of 4,000 feet and enter “upcountry,” famed for its abundance of vegetable farms, lodges, galleries, and the Kula botanical gardens.

It’s been several hours since breakfast so our appetites dictate the next stop. We roll into Kula Lodge, an enchanting chalet and restaurant. Inside we enjoy spectacular vistas of West Maui while refueling ourselves with locally made salads and sandwiches.

Back outside, it’s too warm now for foul-weather gear. We stuff it in our backpacks and resume our plunge. We pass farms, cattle ranches, and even a rodeo – all indications of Maui’s unique Paniolo (cowboy) culture. Pressing on, we arrive at the town of Makawao and explore its western-like streets lined with shops, restaurants and assorted watering holes.

We’re amazed at how fast the time has flown by. It’s already 3:00 PM but it doesn’t feel like we’ve been riding for hours. Normally that amount of cycling would be a drain, but the ease of coasting has kept our energy level high (even though our butts have taken a beating!). Once more we saddle up and, recalling the instructions of our guide, we turn at all the key landmarks to wind our way back to Haiku.

 
It’s been eight hours since we initially departed the HBC shop and we’re ready to turn in our rides. But already the memories of the day are replaying through our minds: the exciting ascent to Haleakala’s top; the shockingly cool and stark summit scenery; the thrilling descent and breathtaking scenery; and the surprising cultural stopovers along the way. Though I’ve been to Maui many times before, for the first time I feel I’ve glimpsed her entirety. The journey highlights the island’s unique and often revered nature and I feel lucky to have gone along for the ride.