Adventure
| Hawaii On Horseback |
| Written by Mark E. Ward |
| December 27, 2007 |
|
Riders Say Maui's Natural Beauty Is Best Appreciated From A Saddle  It may not immediately spring to mind as the classic Hawaiian adventure, but horseback riding in Upcountry Maui is as authentically exhilarating as hanging ten off Waikïkï Beach.  It's also a great way to explore the history and majesty of Maui while enjoying cool Eucalyptus-infused breezes and stunning ocean vistas amid waves of soft green grasses. The experience takes you 2,200 feet above sea level to another world where strip malls, rental cars and tourist trappings can't compete with the untamed beauty of Upcountry.Among the many horseback-riding options on Maui, the Baldwin family's Piiholo Ranch is the only one to offer a traditional Hawaiian paniolo (cowboy) adventure. Paniolos were the original horsemen of Maui, so named because they were of Spanish descent and sported distinctively broad-brimmed hats and colorful bandanas. The horse and cattle culture was a common thread running through six generations of Baldwins, stretching back from the missionary era of the 1830s to the monarchy period of the late 19th century, through two World Wars, the plantation era and on to the present.  As owner-operator of Piiholo Ranch, today's patriarch Peter Baldwin oversees the ranch and strives to uphold the family's legacy. Daughter-in-law Tamalyn Baldwin serves as the head wrangler and is responsible for about 50 horses as well as the other wranglers and a soon-to-be-opened store. "What's great about Piiholo Ranch," she says, "is it's very private. We only take six guests per ride so they really get to enjoy an upcountry experience as we do working the ranch. Out on the ranch, you won't see any roads or any houses either. It's about 10 degrees cooler up here too. The views of the ocean and Haleakalä volcano are beautiful and if you're lucky you'll see axis deer, wild pigs and the state bird of Hawai'i—the endangered Nene goose." Piiholo Ranch rests on the edge of the Makawao Forest Reserve and offers several riding options, including private guided tours. Their most popular outing is a three and a half hour morning picnic ride. The experience begins at 9:30 AM under an open-air pavilion where coffee, pastries and fruit are served up (along with the requisite waivers to be completed). Next, the staff rounds up participants and heads them to the corral where horses are assigned based on riders' height, weight and level of experience. The wranglers give a briefing about the horses, along with basic horseback riding instruction, and each participant is given a chance to test-drive their mount before heading out the gate into the wild green yonder.  In minutes the group has left behind the barns and other buildings of the working cattle ranch. The trail narrows to a horse-width path where horses jockey for position as their hooves punctuate the trek. Cool breezes spread the scent of overhead pine trees. It's all so perfectly Western you'd be forgiven if you imagined hearing the soundtrack from Bonanza. But this is Maui, and as the group settles into an easy pace, the guide shares background on how the cattle and horseback riding culture came to the Islands. Cattle first arrived on Hawai'i when Captain George Vancouver brought them over on his ship as a gift to King Kamehameha I. He advised the King not to place a kapu (taboo) on them for 10 years so they could multiply. Horses were introduced later (1803) when Richard Clevedon offered them as a gift to the King.  By 1820, cattle were being hunted for their hides and meat, but they grew in numbers and started to become a dangerous nuisance, so there came a need for handling them. In about 1830, King Kamehameha III brought the Mexican/Spanish Vaqueros over to the Big Island from Vera Cruz to teach the Hawaiians how to handle cattle. It was the Hawaiian-ized version of Espaniolo or Spaniard that became "Paniolo" as these cowboys are still known today. As the stories and scenery unfold, the minutes fly by. Soon the group arrives at a watering station where the horses quickly grab a spot at one of two troughs, then—inserting their snouts like huge straws—they suck the water level down in seconds. After a little coaxing, riders pull their horses away from the troughs and on up a widening path. The view quickly expands as tree cover thins out and elevation provides spectacular 360-degree vistas. The ocean comes into full view ahead. Gazing to the right, you could follow the mass of Mount Haleakalä all the way up to its 10,023 foot peak, if not for a conglomeration of clouds sticking to its top. The group is now in the midst of the green Kikuyu and Pangola pastures and the wind flows faster, unobstructed by trees. The horses pick up the pace too, perhaps urged on by the flat terrain and wide-open spaces…or maybe they're sensing the rest that waits just around the bend. They're not alone. It's been well over an hour in the saddle, and some riders are beginning to sense those first hunger pangs. Did somebody say "lunch"? Right on cue, the group arrives at a small wooden pavilion. After dismounting and tying up the horses, riders take their places at picnic tables under cover. Here a generous lunch is spread out including soft drinks, smoked BBQ chicken and ribs, pesto pasta salad, spicy cornbread and chips (vegetarian options can also be accommodated with advance notice). Cookies, fruit and macadamia nuts make for a sweet finish—and the few remaining apple slices make for nice horse treats, too.  With appetites sated, riders resume the trek, this time a shortened version, which for many a "rawhide" is a good thing. Still, as the ride continues there is more than enough time to enjoy new sights and enjoy hearing more stories. The guide points out native plants and indigenous trees like the towering eucalyptus, koa acacia, 'öhi'a and olapa trees, and we pause to reflect over the site of a fierce ancient battle on pasture that is now part of Piiholo Ranch.Barely an hour after lunch, the group rounds a final bend on the way back down to the corral, entering with all the pride of a conquering posse. As participants climb into their cars and drive back down to the beach resorts, they take with them happy memories of an exhilarating experience, and a new appreciation for the Islands' surprising and proud paniolo past. Enjoying Hawai'i on horseback proves there's simply nothing like being home on the range in Maui's Upcountry. Website: http://www.piiholo.com Phone: 808-357-5544 |
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