The undisputed, worldwide “godfather of modern sushi,” Japan-born Nobu Matsuhisa, has arrived in Hawai‘i with a gorgeous, brand new restaurant. Anyone who visits his O‘ahu venue is likely to conclude that, yes, Nobu will make you a meal you can’t refuse.

He’s been doing just that across the globe for years. Prior to 1985, what little sushi fare was found in urban climes like New York City, Los Angeles, and San Francisco consisted of unattractive slabs of fish distributed like playing cards in fluorescent-lit rooms more befitting of a science lab than a restaurant.

Matsuhisa (known by patrons, friends and couture sushi loyalists simply as “Nobu”) lived in the first sushi restaurant he worked at in Tokyo, straight out of high school. A dedicated customer lured Nobu to Lima, Peru, offering the young chef his own restaurant. At its peak, Nobu found himself relocating to Alaska to open his second successful sushi eatery. Mere days after visiting Los Angeles on vacation in 1987, Nobu decided to open his first signature eatery there, called Matsuhisa. It was an immediate success—and the staging ground that launched a career in reshaping Japanese dining.

It was here that Nobu met actor Robert De Niro, who, partnering with New York City restaurant magnate Drew Neiporent, teamed with the chef in 1994 to open Nobu in Manhattan. Gotham City embraced the triad and their venture, while sushi restaurants from coast to coast were left wondering what made a Nobu dining experience so wildly unique.

While the various culinary techniques that he picked up between Japan, South America and throughout the States are a huge factor, a significant part of Nobu’s success can be attributed to the sexy décor of his eatery. Rich colors, various textures and soft lighting combine to create an ethereal eating experience. Insisting on top-quality ingredients for all his meticulously crafted dishes, Nobu refused to allow his plates to be presented in any atmosphere that was less worthy than his kitchen artistry.

Teaming with New York’s Rockwell Design Group, Nobu found a formula that worked. So well, that the concept spread like wildfire: First to London in 1997, followed by Nobu Tokyo in 1998; eateries in Malibu, Milan, Bahamas, Hong Kong and Miami Beach followed.

This June, Nobu Waikiki opens in perhaps the most ideal place for an outpost of Nobu’s empire. Hawai‘i’s blend of Asian and American influences, paired with its native Hawaiian offerings of pristine surroundings and a bountiful sea, set the tone for what Nobu referred to as “a homecoming, of sorts.”

The 7,500 square foot space is located on the ground floor of the Waikiki Parc —an O‘ahu hotel tucked behind (and shares the same owners as) the Halekulani —O‘ahu’s toniest resort. The Waikiki Parc recently wrapped a major overhaul that transformed it from sleepy hideaway to modern boutique: the perfect drum roll for a Nobu opening. Nobu seats 250-plus within eyeshot of the front desk in a space that may be the sexiest on-island.

Patrons enter the lounge and bar room from inside the hotel (an outdoor patio will have a second entrance). The lounge, featuring walnut finishings, opens an hour before the dining room, and closes an hour later. The wood also frames 10 small cocktail tables, where diners await tables, or bar patrons can order from a tasting menu and chose from Nobu’s legendary sake list. A three-paneled abstract of an orchid is the sole art hung on the lounge wall.

The deep lounge vibe is heightened as you pass beneath an archway into the dining room. Olive green and rich, deep-red wall panels add more color to this room, while scorched ash is used for the long sushi bar — the staging ground for all sushi preparations at Nobu. Behind the bar, and found in various accent locations throughout the restaurant, are the stunning effects created by backlit Italian onyx panels. A more dramatic version of marble, this theme actually runs through many of the Rockwell-designed Nobu restaurants.

“The Nobu ‘thing’ is to see and be seen,” said Julie Frank, Rockwell Group design project director. “While it is a public space, our clientele like to think of Nobu as a sanctuary. They like certain things.” (In particular, the A-list celebrity crowd is especially appreciative of Nobu’s clever, privacy-enhancing architecture at various points throughout the restaurant.)

Clean lines are a theme, with slate flooring under the sushi bar, and more walnut accents throughout the room. As the eye travels upward, woven wooden screens rise up the walls, and are met by hanging silks, both of which frame various clusters of orange lights that are part fishing net, part chandelier. The leather-backed stools at the bar are finished with silks that hang off the back, mimicking those that hang from the ceiling.

During the dance that is peak dinnertime at any Nobu eatery, it’s clear that the artistry of the food, balanced by the sexy décor, are together what keep Nobu’s clientele returning. Add the lapping waves of Waikiki to this formula, and there’s no question it will be another successful outpost. The only real “crime” associated with the godfather of sushi would be to miss the experience.