The lush peninsula of Kalaupapa rolls out from the cliffs of north Moloka‘i like a soft, green carpet ready to soothe weary seafarers. But this serene welcome mat belies the profound tragedies suffered here by thousands of unfortunate Hawaiians.

It is not known where or when the first case of leprosy arrived in Hawai‘i, but it so shocked the island nation that in 1865 King Kamehameha V instituted "An Act to Prevent the Spread of Leprosy." The law forced anyone suspected of having the disease to be exiled on Kalaupapa. Hundreds of healthy, indigenous, and completely innocent people were forced from their homes there, to make room for thousands more disease victims in what became Hawai‘i’s first isolation settlement. The law remained in effect until 1969, by which time about 8,000 people had endured the pain of what is today known as Hansen’s disease and the heartbreak of separation.

In 1980 Kalaupapa National Historical Park was established, offering visitors a look back at this tragic chapter in Hawaiian history. Here spectacular north shore sea cliffs, rain forests, narrow valleys, lava tubes and a volcanic crater dominate the scenery. But the most striking impression comes from the historic community of Kalaupapa, where the stories of personal suffering tower over the landscape.

No person is more central to the history of Kalaupapa and nearby Kalawao than a Belgian priest named Joseph De Veuster, better known as Father Damien. Joseph’s older brother, Pamphile, was to serve as a missionary in the far distant "Sandwich Islands," but when it came time for him to depart he was too ill to go, so Joseph took his place.

He arrived in Honolulu on March 19, 1864, where he was ordained and took the name of Damien. His first calling was on the Big Island of Hawai‘i, where he spent eight years. In 1873 he learned of the need for priests to serve the 700 Hansen’s disease victims confined on Moloka‘i and volunteered to go. That same year he arrived by steamer along with supplies, cattle and 50 new patients.

Father Damien gradually helped transform Kalawao from a place to die into a place to live. He spoke the Hawaiian language and offered hope. He provided medical care for the living and buried the dead. Assisted by patients, he built houses, constructed a water system, planted trees and organized schools, bands, and choirs.

Emboldened by his cause, Damien became a plague of sorts to the Hawaiian government and his church, frequently badgering them for more resources to care for his afflicted flock. His efforts got results and attracted worldwide attention, heightening awareness of the disease and the plight of its victims. Ultimately his cause would consume his life.

Damien’s leprosy was diagnosed in 1884. He died five years later at the age of 49. His death was widely noted throughout Hawai‘i and in Europe—and as the years passed, his life of devotion to an outcast people inspired thousands to be more caring and accepting of the diseased and disfigured.

Though once a community in isolation, Kalaupapa now invites education and contemplation. Its inspiring human history and welcoming natural beauty have given it the power to heal—a trait not lost on the dozens of Hansen’s disease survivors who now choose to call Kalaupapa home.

For more on this fascinating location visit http://www.nps.gov/kala/docs/start.htm
Images courtesy of the National Park Service.