I recently had the pleasure of visiting a cacao estate on the North Shore of O'ahu. Michael Conway, an agronomist and operation manager for diversified crops with Dole Food Company, took me on a behind-the-scenes tour of Waialua Estate Chocolate, which produces single-origin dark chocolate so exquisite and rare, top chefs are clamoring to get their hands on it.

Years ago, sweet Hawaiian pineapples and sugar cane grew on this land in Waialua, cradled between the Wai'anae mountain range and the Pacific Ocean. Twenty years ago, Conway had an idea and planted cacao plants native to Asia, Africa and South America on the plantation, then wound up leaving O'ahu for the Big Island to grow anthuriums for nearly a decade. The cacao plants were left unattended, but matured and thrived into trees, through a thicket of invading weeds.

Three years ago, when the demand for dark chocolate soared, Conway revisited the cacao trees he planted, and was in for a sweet surprise. He quickly restored the plants back to health, and eventually harvested the pods. From the phone book, he randomly selected a chocolate processor and sent the dried beans off for an assessment.

Conway coincidentally picked one of the finest chocolate makers, E. Guittard Chocolate Company in San Francisco. A week and a half later, Gary Guittard, president and CEO of E. Guittard, and his vice president, flew to Hawai'i to meet Conway. They were excited after tasting the product and intrigued by the quality, characteristics and distinct flavor of the finished dark chocolate.

Today, close to 20 acres of carefully maintained cacao plants grow on the Waialua estate. Conway says 90 percent of all world cacaos grown are grown between 0 to 10 degrees of the equator, and points out that Hawai'i is about 20 degrees north of the equator.

This difference in degrees makes a world of difference to chocolate, and distinguishes Hawai'i chocolate from other world cacao, as does Waialua’s temperature, humidity and heat. Add to that the rich volcanic soil of Waialua, and the resulting cacao beans bear an exquisite smoky, aromatic flavor. The cacao bean is processed, and produced into a rich dark bitter chocolate, offering 70 percent cacao content, which imparts a soft, smooth, velvety texture that is intensified with a lasting woody, smoky bouquet. Heavenly!

Chef Alan Wong serves the Waialua Estate Chocolate in several recipes at his famed Honolulu restaurant.

"It’s unique," Wong says. "It’s one of two cacao growing plantations in the entire United States that grows and processes the cacao entirely in the U.S." (Bob Cooper’s Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory on Hawai'i’s Big Island is the other.)

"In taste comparisons with other countries," Wong adds, "Waialua is the hands-down winner for me. It not only can compete, but I picked it over all others world-wide because of its rich full-bodied flavor, low acid and aroma. I get a lot of ripe berries when I eat the chocolate. Everyone who eats it loves it!"

The Waialua Estate Chocolate is sold at the Dole Plantation on O'ahu, located near Wahiawä, about a 40-minute drive from Waikïkï. On the mainland, local boy turned world-class pastry chef Stanton Ho is developing a Hawaiian chocolate product line for Chocolates a la Carte, and the chocolate is also celebrated on the menus at both Four Seasons resorts on Läna'i. Meanwhile at the Honolulu Design Center, pastry chef Mark Okumura teases customers of Mark O. Cakes and Desserts with his Waialua chocolate fantasy sampler platter.

Conway’s dream is to create a new industry with independent farmers following the model of the Kona Coffee industry (he notes that Kona coffee is served in the White House). He hopes that Waialua Estate Chocolate will soon be on the presidential menu as well.

The first time I tasted this chocolate I was in heaven! It inspired me to create a special Waialua & Guittard Chocolate fondue recipe. This fondue makes any fruit (or body part) more delicious. Try it out on Valentines Day, or any other special occasion, and you will taste the love and Aloha in every bite.

For more information on Olelo pa'a’s Conscious Hawaiian Cuisine™ and line of Glow Hawai'i products, visit www.glowhawaii.com.

Waialua Estate Chocolate Fondue

Courtesy of Chef Olelo pa’a Faith Ogawa / Glow Hawaii

6 ounces Waialua Extra Dark Chocolate, chopped
6 ounces E. Guittard 38% Cacao Milk Chocolate, chopped
½ cup heavy cream
¼ cup milk
¼ cup brandy

Instructions:

Melt all ingredients in a double boiler set over simmering (not boiling) water, on low heat, until it melts into a smooth, creamy texture. Place the fondue in a warmed ceramic dish or fondue pot. A ceramic ramekin placed over a small candle flame is ideal. Intense heat will burn chocolate. Note that the fondue will thicken as it cools.

Dip fresh pineapple chunks, strawberries, banana slices, marshmallows, peeled oranges, banana cake, biscotti or your favorite cookies into this delectable fondue.

This fondue can also be used as an ice cream topping. So Pono, so Ono!