Hawaiian Style Magazine | Fine Design, Style, & Culture of Hawaii - http://www.hawaiianstylemagazine.com/article
Hawai`i Goes Whole Hog for Pua'a
http://www.hawaiianstylemagazine.com/article/articles/87/1/Hawaii-Goes-Whole-Hog-for-Puaa/Page1.html
By Olelo pa’a Faith Ogawa
Published on 03/11/2007
 
Olelo pa’a Faith Ogawa

 
Hawai`i, we are blessed with many different ethnic celebrations throughout the year. This year is the Chinese Year of the Boar, a festive time marked by lion dancers, firecrackers and other spirited revelry. But the pig, or pua'a, is appreciated by many cultures in Hawai`i…particularly on the table.

The Other White Meat
Kalua Pork and Staff
at Kona Village Resort
Photo by Olelo pa'a Faith Ogawa

In Hawai`i, we are blessed with many different ethnic celebrations throughout the year. This year is the Chinese Year of the Boar, a festive time marked by lion dancers, firecrackers and other spirited revelry. But the pig, or pua`a, is appreciated by many cultures in Hawai`i…particularly on the table.

At a lu`au (Hawaiian feast; formerly called pa`ina) the main attraction is kalua pork cooked in an imu. An imu is an underground pit where hot rocks, ti leaves and banana leaves are used to slow cook the whole hog, which is seasoned with rock salt. In ancient times, the spirit of the pua`a hiwa (pure black pig) was used as an offering to the gods, and the flesh was eaten by man. Kalua pork has a delicate, aromatic smoky flavor and is very moist and tender. Many lu`au serve it with poi and lomi salmon – a perfect combination!

Today, Hawai`i chefs like Alan Wong use kalua pig in creative ways. One of his signature dishes is “Da Bag,” a captivating dish with kalua pig, fresh clams, shiitake mushrooms and spinach steamed together in a foil pouch. At many plate lunch (local fast food) establishments you can find Kalua Pig and Cabbage on the menu board. This is a simple and tasty dish. These days, I cook kalua pig almost like a stir fry, combining Maui onions, kale or Swiss chard and Hamakua Ali’i mushrooms to create a balanced and nourishing dish for my clients, friends and family.

Platter of Laulau
at the Kona Village beach front
Photo by Olelo pa'a Faith Ogawa

Another savory Hawaiian pork dish is laulau, or pork and salted butterfish folded in a bundle of taro leaves, then wrapped with ti leaves and steamed for several hours. So delicate and moist!

I remember attending a Filipino party where the entire pig, including some organ meats, were used in various dishes. The most popular Filipino pork dish known in Hawai`i is pork adobo, a soy garlic and vinegar dish that is cooked slowly. Other favorites are pork guisantes (pork with sweet peas and pimiento), dinuguan (pork blood stew) and pinacbet (pork with bitter melon, eggplant and other vegetables). The Filipinos balance the protein with their exotic vegetables and legumes. When I crave Filipino food, I head to Waipahu and Kalihi on O`ahu, and I’m never disappointed.

Char Sui Pork
Photo by Michael Horton

Carne de vinha d’alhos (slow cooked pork with vinegar and spices) is a Portuguese specialty. Portuguese sausage, a coarse and spicy indulgence, is a true local favorite. In fact, at McDonald’s restaurants in Hawai`i you can find Portuguese sausage on the breakfast menu. Portuguese are avid hunters, and are skilled at smoking meats.

On the Big Island, many local parties start off with pupu (hors d’oeuvres) like smoked pork. The pork is marinated, then smoked with ohia wood chips or guava wood chips for a deep, robust flavor. Smoked pork and ice cold beer is the way to go! Another Big Island legend are the pork chops at the Manago Hotel in Captain Cook. The tender chops are fried crisp and moist, and are the specialty of this modest, family-owned restaurant.

My most delicious pork memory is Chinese roast pork. I roam the streets of Honolulu’s Chinatown in pursuit of succulent, crispy-skinned roast pork. Walking the streets, you see roast pork and char sui (sweet red pork) glistening through the glass windows. My mouth waters as I place my order. The excitement intensifies as I observe the butcher cutting the succulent roast pork into bite-size pieces. He hands me a few morsels and I start crunching on this beautiful piece of pua`a. My friends, family and I laugh as we eat this flavorful pork with oils streaming from our mouths. It is an ono (delicious) moment!

Chinese Crispy Skin Roast Pork
Photo by Olelo pa'a Faith Ogawa

So what is in store for the Year of the Boar? A consultant from World of Feng Shui at Pearlridge Mall tells me that it is a good year for some Chinese animal signs to start new businesses. It will be a balanced year, and everyone should focus on eating well, exercising and laughing a lot. Lastly, don’t sweat the small stuff. Instead, start living life, and experience a taste of Hawai`i!