James McDonald's restaurants all possess stunning beachfront views, excellent food and an incredibly hip and professional staff. James McDonald himself possesses a talent for finding and using stunning produce, creating excellent food and being, well, a little bit different from your run-of-the-mill chef in Hawai'i.

McDonald does indeed have a farm, and while nothing on it actually moos or bleats, he has instant access to some of the freshest produce on Maui and a mission to make his restaurants self-sufficient. McDonald's O'o Farm, situated in Upcountry Maui, provides greens and herbs to three of the island's busiest, award-winning restaurants, Pacific 'O, I'o and The Feast at Lele, all part of the group that McDonald and his partners have been building since the early 1990s. McDonald himself is a Philadelphia native who transplanted to Maui in 1980. He is one of Maui Community College's most celebrated graduate, a poster boy for young chefs with dreams of restaurant success and a certain amount of fame. It doesn't hurt that, as well as an ability to cook, McDonald is one of those guys who oozes charisma and character. He'll don a sky-blue chef's jacket for a photo shoot, while everyone else wears white. He'll change his hairstyle and his appearance depending on his mood and he doesn't mind at all if you refer to him as a rebel in the kitchen. But sit down and talk to him about food, fish and farming and you're talking to someone who meets your eye with a steady gaze and who is as switched-on as the tiki torches that light up his länai.

"What give me pleasure is to be inspired by ingredients and then see people enjoy what we've created," he says.

Pacific 'O was the first of McDonald's restaurants to open in Lahaina and it has received rave reviews almost from day one. Light and open, it has an outdoor feeling even when you're inside. It's a restaurant trying to embrace the ocean. The deck overlooks the ocean, fresh fish is hauled in for dinner and there's a general wave of synergy that happens between kitchen, fresh produce and diner. Walk across cool marble floors to sit outside on the länai or stay inside beneath cooling fans and welcome trade winds to enjoy a restaurant that is unique in more ways than just its décor.

Color is important to McDonald. Not just the standout chef jackets in pastels and vibrant blues and greens that he prefers, but as a reflection of the passion he has for produce. He uses color on his plates as an artist does on a palette. So it comes as no surprise to find his biological father was an artist and musician, 'a product of the sixties,' says James, from whom McDonald undoubtedly inherited some talent. "I've always drawn and painted and I've always been artistic," he says, "and I've also always been a self-motivator. It pushes me to look for creative ways to do things."

There's no doubt about his creativity, nor about his ability to attract and hire like-minded souls. "We have a talented group in our kitchens," he says. The chefs in turn will admit that McDonald gives them a ton of room to stay creative and lots of free reign. It's a freedom that's evident in the discipline of the dishes.

A 'Leaning Tower of Tofu' features grilled spicy soy painted organic tofu with vibrant stir-fried Asian greens and a tropical salsa that is bursting with color. Thai jasmine rice and ginger ponzu add color and flavor and texture to a dish that is sure to convince the most dedicated carnivore that meatless is the way to go.

On Maui, where McDonald has been named Chef of The Year and where his restaurants have won countless awards, it's tough to be the best. Perhaps more than any other of the Hawaiian Islands, Maui has its fair share of excellent places to eat. But McDonald and his group have no problem in standing out from the crowd. And it's not just the food that has diners raving. It's the whole experience. With a touch of theatrics, evident in any of his PR shots, McDonald understands what constitutes a fine dining experience. He knows how to get your attention and he's aware that part of a great dining experience is putting on a great performance. It's all passed onto the staff at Pacific 'O and the result is good service, knowledgeable wine waiters, and a level of competency that exceeds expectations of Lahaina's often slower-paced, ocean town lifestyle.

The service is good at Pacific 'O, and indeed on one trip to I'o, its neighboring, sister restaurant, I had some of the best service I have ever had, anywhere.

"I'm happy to hear that," says McDonald, giving me his devilishly wry grin, as if to say "It doesn't surprise me, but I'm glad you noticed." But in this town of hot chefs and dazzling locations, theatrics, good looks and sex appeal don't cut it if you don't know your Maui onions.

McDonald knows his stuff and what makes Pacific 'O such a great place to visit is that he's not afraid to show it. Try his coconut macadamia nut crusted fresh catch of the day with a Thai peanut and coconut sauce for example. Finished with a sweet and sour glaze and a tropical fruit salsa, the color and sweetness of this dish makes it stand out from others of the same style around the island.

Or try the Kona Winds--a restaurant favorite with fresh fish smothered in a blend of the restaurant's own spices, served over wilted greens from the O'o Farm and topped with warm avocado, Maui onion salsa, goat cheese and a soy bacon vinaigrette.

The Pacific 'O experience is one most diners don't forget. Indeed for many it's the dining event on Maui they take with them when they leave.

And McDonald knows intuitively what they'll remember. " We're very fortunate with our location," he says in a somewhat understated tone about the stunning ocean views. " And there's no one signature dish at Pacific 'O. It's not about what goes on the plate, it's about how it's perceived."

Thai Peanut Coconut Sauce, Sweet & Sour Glaze, and Tropical Salsa

Serves 4

Thai Peanut Sauce Ingredients:

1 oz lemongrass, chopped semi-fine 1 cup chicken stock

1 oz ginger, rough chopped 1 cup coconut milk

1 oz garlic, roughly chopped 2 cups peanut butter

2 oz lime juice 1 tsp sambal chili paste

1 oz shrimp sauce salt to taste

Method:

In a sauce pot over medium heat, dry saute the lemongrass, ginger and garlic for one minute. Next add lime juice, sake, and shrimp sauce. Reduce by half. Add chicken stock and reduce by half. Add coconut milk and peanut butter and let simmer 15 minutes. Strain, add sambal and salt to taste.

Sweet & Sour Glaze Ingredients:

1 cup sugar 1 oz low sodium soy sauce

2 cups rice wine vinegar

2 tsp cinnamon powder

¼ cup red wine vinegar

2 tsp red chili flakes

¼ Cup white wine vinegar 2 cinnamon sticks

Method:

Place all ingredients into a sauce pot over medium heat. Bring to a boil, turn down to low, simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Tropical Fruit Salsa Ingredients:

½ cup pineapple, diced

¼ cup onion, small dice

½ cup papaya, diced 2 Tbls cilantro, rough chopped

½ cup mango, diced

Method:

Combine all ingredients and reserve chilled.

Crust Ingredients:

1 cup macadamia nuts, chopped semi-fine

2 eggs, beaten

½ cup unsweetened coconut thread

4 - 5-oz. fresh fish fillets

¼ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs) salt and pepper to taste

½ cup flour

Method:

Mix macadamia nuts, coconut and panko together in a shallow pan. Set up a breading station by placing flour and eggs in two separate shallow pans. Dip fish fillets in flour, then eggs, and then nut mixture. ONLY bread one side of fish. Season fish and place in saute pan heated with peanut oil, nut-side down and cook until golden brown. Turn fish over, remove from heat and reserve covered until ready to serve.

To Plate the Dish:

Ladle a little peanut sauce in the middle of each plate. Place a piece of fish in the center of the sauce. Ladle a little sweet & sour glaze over the top of the fish. Top with tropical fruit salsa.