Contemporary styles fit Island life

A bright spot of color lights up the drab, battleship-gray rows of apartment buildings on Punahou Street in Honolulu. It's Manuheali'i, Inc., retailers of Hawaiian apparel that celebrates the culture of Hawai'i and family within the patterns of the prints.

On a typical Saturday recently, a steady stream of customers kept the staff hopping. The reason was no mystery. The lively, giddy colors, stunning prints and flattering selection of styles are plainly irresistible to their mostly local clientele. The store, with its warm architectural details and halogen track lighting, offers a pleasant welcome and a clean showcase for racks of colorful clothes ideal for Island living, including both dressy and casual occasions. What's more, these fashions embody Hawaiian spirit every step of the way, from concept and design through manufacturing and sales.

"My husband and I have tried to keep true to our culture by creating a line of clothing that's comfortable, contemporary, offers clean lines and is fresh," says Danene Lunn, owner of Manuheali'i. She explains that most of the printed images in the collections are based on the way that traditional Hawaiian quilt patterns are conceived-through symbols that memorialize culture, events, special trees, plants and gardens, new babies and other important milestones in a Hawaiian family's life.

Lunn says that working within that tradition, she and her husband, Pono, an architect by training, are inspired to create collections by whatever significant event might be happening in her family's life at the moment. For example, the "Onipa'a" design was introduced to commemorate the anniversary of the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy and honors Queen Lili'uokalani.

In another case, when Pono Lunn's parents moved to Kaua'i and planted numerous birds of paradise at their farm, the Pali Uli collection was born.

Perhaps one of the more touching examples she cites includes a print based on the naupaka tree that she planted just as her eldest son left Hawai'i for college. "He'd come home on school breaks, and say, 'Mom, since I've been away from home, the naupaka is really growing tall!' -- but what he didn't realize is that we were thinking the exact same thing about him," Danene Lunn says, her eyes moistening.

Not only are the prints unique and personal, each collection is like a work of art. Created in limited editions and introduced once every eight to 10 weeks, collections gradually sell out and are never repeated. By then a new collection is brought in.

Lunn says customers love the idea of owning a one-of-a-kind garment that doesn't look like something everyone else is wearing. And the fashions give people a contemporary alternative to the more traditional Hawaiian wear, as epitomized by the free-flowing and sometimes tutu-esque mu'umu'u.

The Manuheali'i (the word means "chiefly bird" and is also Danene's middle name) line has something for everyone.

Longtime customer Pono Umuiwi, 40, is a true Manuheali'i aficionado and says he buys a new shirt at least once every other week. "The clothes are so cool and comfortable and easy to take care of," he says. "They have my size too. I can lose weight and still be fashionable-I'm going from size XL down and replacing all my shirts." He also says he likes the prints so much that he bought dresses for the ladies he works with at the lodge at Marine Corps Base Hawai'i, Kaneohe.

Manuheali'i fashions have always been extremely popular, garnering a loyal following since the company's inception in 1985, when the Lunns began selling their wares through the local craft fair circuit.

"We knew we were on to something when we'd go to the craft fairs and everything would sell out consistently," says Danene Lunn, who adds that she has been sewing prodigiously since she was a little girl and was taught the craft by her mother. "And then we thought it was maybe time to open our first store (in 1992, in Kailua) when customers started showing up at our house very early on Saturday mornings looking for us before we'd even brushed our teeth!"

Danene Lunn, who graduated with an AA degree in fashion design from Honolulu Community College, creates the dress designs, does the grading (sizing) and drafts the patterns. She says she was mentored and inspired as a young fashion design student by two flamboyant "uncles," Hawaiian designers Nakeu Awai and Allen Akime.

Behind the scenes, the operation is definitely a family affair. Pono Lunn, married to Danene 25 years, creates the graphic design (with occasional "girlie" softening of the masculine edges by Danene). Middle son Keaka, 23, and his wife Ku'u attend college by day and run the busy Web site at night. La'amea, 24, handles the bookkeeping. Youngest son Lokahi is studying art at college, which could well lead him into working for the family business someday as well.

As for most of the rest of the staff, Lunn says they are all 'ohana as well. Store manager Kehau Chung graduated high school with Pono Lunn, and numerous cousins and relatives make up the staff of about 20.

While the yardage is printed in Japan, all the sewing is contracted to two local sources in Hawai'i. Most fabrics are rayon or cotton, but Lunn says a new silk line is being introduced in May. The complete line also includes bedding, bags and home accessories as well as a line of children's clothes. The company outfitted the on-air personalities for this year's Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo.

"One of the best compliments I ever got was from a girl of about 20 years old," recounts Danene Lunn. "She came in and told us that she used to wear our culottes as a little girl and comes back to us for her clothes now that she is a young woman. It was so nice to know that we mature and evolve along with our customers."