Kahe ka wai…Ola ka i`a… Ola ke Kanaka (When the waters flow…life thrives…and man lives.) Rain, tear drops from heaven, nourish the aina (land), from which springs and rivers flow with life.

This Hawaiian phrase was spoken by Dan Kaniela Akaka, a renowned Hawaiian cultural guardian, about the area of Laupahoehoe on the Big Island’s lush and fertile Hamakua Coast. We were recently invited by Pi`i Laeha, a Laupahoehoe local, and his `ohana (family), to a special gathering celebrating their Laupahoehoe heritage through food, stories, song, and dance. Kaniela’s soulful words served as a reminder of what makes Laupahoehoe so important.

The outdoor event was held at Laupahoehoe’s beautiful park setting, where Hawaiian musicians and hula dancers entranced us while we shared food. I was inspired by Laupahoehoe’s abundance of history and ingredients, and created a dish I named “the Treasures of Laupahoehoe.” It consists of ho`i`o fern, pepeiao (a Hawaiian mushroom also called wood ear), Hamakua shiitake mushrooms, locally grown bamboo shoots, and `opae (I substituted small farm-raised shrimp), stir-fried with other ingredients, including gobo, a locally grown burdock root, and hijiki (Japanese black seaweed). There wasn’t a bite left!

Pi`i told us that in the past, Hawaiians from Laupahoehoe would go to the streams to catch `opae, `o`opu (a slippery dark fish) and wi (a snail also called freshwater `opihi) that once flourished in these streams. Locals at the party talked about bringing back a basketful of jumping `opae, just enough to feed the `ohana., a “fishing” trip that took skill and knowledge. When they returned home, the family would gather in the backyard to clean the ‘opae and steam them in woven baskets. The shrimp would be eaten with kalo (poi). How tasty and nourishing that must have been! These days, we are more cautious about the purity of our rivers and streams waters due to run-off and wild animals, even in Laupahoehoe.

Along the Hamakua Coast are magnificent waterfalls that cascade into the Pacific Ocean. The waterfalls are surrounded by dense rainforest. As a child, I remember going to a similar setting in the mountains of O`ahu to pick ho`i`o ferns and pepeiao with my `ohana. We found pepeiao at the base of damp tree trunks. Much to the delight of local cooks, Hamakua Heritage Farm in Laupahoehoe has recently begun to cultivate pepeiao.

On the slopes of Laupahoehoe, you can also find kukui (candlenut) trees, which produce a delicious nut. The nuts are roasted and a relish is made of the cooked kernel, mashed with Hawaiian salt. This unique relish is called inamona and used as a seasoning for poke (cubed raw fish) and other dishes.

Ulu (breadfruit) trees also thrive along the Hamakua Coast, and are an important Hawaiian staple. The leaves of an ulu tree look like large fingers extending out, and are very attractive. Images of the leaves are a popular pattern on Hawaiian quilts. When potato is used in a recipe, I often substitute it with ulu. Ulu is delicious baked, eaten with melted butter and Hawaiian salt. Simple to prepare and so ono (delicious)!

Wai (water) is essential to Hawaii and the land. Wai provides life for us all. The ancient Hawaiians were natural conservationists, with great appreciation for the land, water and ocean that nourished them. I was humbled when Kupuna Aunty Mona Malani shared her stories and wisdom with us in Laupahoehoe: “When gathering food, take only what you need and share with others.” Ancient Hawaiians were mindful people with profound thoughts, which still resonate today. My friend Pi`i Laeha sums it up: “Take care of the land and the land will take care of us.”

All photos by Olelo pa’a Faith Ogawa.